Last step, dip the strip into the fix bath for another 30 seconds.After 60 seconds, remove rapidly the strip from the development and dip it into the stopping bath for about 30 seconds while stirring.Shake the basin gently to ensure that the solution covers the entire image. Dip the test strip into the development bath.Cover with a matte card one-fifth of the paper and expose the rest for another 2 seconds.Turn on the projector light for 2 seconds using the timer connected exposing the entire strip.Place the paper strip with the sensitive part upwards on the projection plane.Extract one sheet (always in the dark or red light) and cut a strip of sufficient size to cover an area of the image that has the relevant details to find the correct exposure. You have to sacrifice a sheet of photo paper for testing exposure. You can see the grain of the film and you have to focus on those grains.Įxposing a Test Print: Turn off the light, turn on the red safety lamp. This accessory is not essential but very useful: Focus Scope, which is like a microscope that allows you to focus the projected image with great precision. Of course, a dark room! Or a dark bathroom in my case.A large bowl with water for wash the papers at the end of the process.Thermometer to measure the temperature of the acid.Clamps for handling the paper (you should not dip your fingers in acid!). 3 bowls to soak the paper in various stages of development.To stop may actually be enough water (to develop I use ILFORD PQ Universal, and Ilford Rapid Fixer to fix) Chemical solutions for development, stopping and fixing.Photographic Paper (for starters, I recommend a variable contrast such as Ilford Multigrade 4.Photographic enlarger (I have an old Durst M301).
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